Like a lot of the other entries in the blog, we're usually starting with our mode of transport, so I'm going to continue in that vein, the only difference being this time round is that it was the worst journey so far, for one simple reason.
We caught the overnight sleeper train from Varanasi Junction to Agra Fort, and the pungent stench of urine in our carriage was actually quite unbelievable. On a scale of 1 to 10 on an Allison and Tom scale of previous urine smell experiences , this was off the chart.
You know in England you get that urine smell in public toilets, especially in the gents for some reason, not that I wander off into the ladies for a casual sniff, I just know their toilets don't smell as bad as ours. Anyway that public gents urinal smell is like a bed of roses compared to this. It was nauseating, even headache inducing, and we had to remain with this smell for over 12 hours, 2 extra bonus hours were added because the train ran fashionably late. So a hardy 14 hour piss smelling journey was undertaken to reach Agra Fort. Not only that but the guy in the bunk above me was doing the smelliest farts ever, ones that if I was doing them I would have been incredibly proud of myself, but to be breathing in someone else's gases combined with the pee in an enclosed space on a train is horrible!
A not too happy Allison on her bunk
You know in England you get that urine smell in public toilets, especially in the gents for some reason, not that I wander off into the ladies for a casual sniff, I just know their toilets don't smell as bad as ours. Anyway that public gents urinal smell is like a bed of roses compared to this. It was nauseating, even headache inducing, and we had to remain with this smell for over 12 hours, 2 extra bonus hours were added because the train ran fashionably late. So a hardy 14 hour piss smelling journey was undertaken to reach Agra Fort. Not only that but the guy in the bunk above me was doing the smelliest farts ever, ones that if I was doing them I would have been incredibly proud of myself, but to be breathing in someone else's gases combined with the pee in an enclosed space on a train is horrible!
On arrival we were picked up by a cab and taken to our homestay.
Time to rest my weary hands and let Allison tell you about the rest of our stay in Agra.
We arrived at our homestay, showered, changed and had breakfast. We decided that we were going to have a complete sightseeing day as we were leaving in the morning. Our taxi arrived at 10am and we were off to see one of the seven wonders of the world, something I had always dreamt of seeing.
We were dropped off at the west gate, and made our way down to the payment area. Indians 20 rupees; Foreigners 750 rupees (but that included a bottle of water and shoe covers)!
After paying, collecting shoe covers and water, we were approached by an Indian man who informed us of his knowledge of the Taj Mahal and had been a guide there for 10 years; he initially quoted a price of 975 rupees for one hour and eventually down to 500. I further persuaded him to make it 400, which we shook on.
We walked through the grounds and through a small entrance way, where you could see a small part of the structure but when we stepped through the main gate and saw the Taj Mahal in full view - it was absolutely breathtaking - it was so overwhelming to see something that you normally see in pictures, right there in front of you. It was incredible. It's funny because I couldn't even speak whilst looking at this magnificent white structure that took 22 years to build.
I also felt quite sad in some respects but also happy, knowing that it was only a few years ago that my mum was here, and felt a connection to her, perhaps because of what she may have had experienced here too - which brought warmth to my heart.
We wandered around with our guide who was happily explaining the history of this monument whilst getting him to take pictures of us together (another benefit of having a guide) and absorbing all the information. Tom as per usual having a very short concentration span kept drifting off from what he was saying and returning to the conversation a few minutes later. When our guide finished his guiding duty, we paid him the original rate that he asked of 500 rupees and told him that we wanted to wander around at our leisure.
After circling the building, we took the stairs into the garden area, found a bench and sat just staring at the Taj Mahal. I could have sat there all day just looking at it - I still cannot believe how amazing it actually is! But after around half an hour we made our way out of the garden taking several pictures en route and exited the grounds - next stop Agra Fort.
Unfortunately we did not know much about the history of Agra fort and opted out for a guide this time, but nevertheless it was interesting and beautiful to wander around... I tested my panoramic lens on my phone.......Not bad eh?!!!
After the Fort we headed to the baby Taj Mahal - which was built in the 1620's. This structure is a large tomb which has the symmetry of the Taj Mahal but a with very different look on a much smaller scale. Inside it contains various tombs from history way back......
Our day was almost ending in Agra, but last on the agenda was a trip across the river to a quiet spot where we could watch the sunset behind the magnificent Taj. However, not so quiet as we were getting pestered by little kids either wanting chocolate or pens! We gave one kid a pen who ran off extremely happy then a few minutes later, along came his friend! Needless to say, pens (or chocolate for that matter) are not something we carry around in bulk! So he walked off - a not so happy little boy!
At least it made a change from them asking for money! Anyway... It was beautiful to see how the reflection of the sun could change the colours and the feel of the Taj Mahal...it was a beautiful day - visiting a place built upon love and devotion...mmmmmm....it was definitely worth the 14 hour piss smelling train journey!!!! Next Stop - Rishikesh....
We arrived at our homestay, showered, changed and had breakfast. We decided that we were going to have a complete sightseeing day as we were leaving in the morning. Our taxi arrived at 10am and we were off to see one of the seven wonders of the world, something I had always dreamt of seeing.
We were dropped off at the west gate, and made our way down to the payment area. Indians 20 rupees; Foreigners 750 rupees (but that included a bottle of water and shoe covers)!
After paying, collecting shoe covers and water, we were approached by an Indian man who informed us of his knowledge of the Taj Mahal and had been a guide there for 10 years; he initially quoted a price of 975 rupees for one hour and eventually down to 500. I further persuaded him to make it 400, which we shook on.
We walked through the grounds and through a small entrance way, where you could see a small part of the structure but when we stepped through the main gate and saw the Taj Mahal in full view - it was absolutely breathtaking - it was so overwhelming to see something that you normally see in pictures, right there in front of you. It was incredible. It's funny because I couldn't even speak whilst looking at this magnificent white structure that took 22 years to build.
I also felt quite sad in some respects but also happy, knowing that it was only a few years ago that my mum was here, and felt a connection to her, perhaps because of what she may have had experienced here too - which brought warmth to my heart.
We wandered around with our guide who was happily explaining the history of this monument whilst getting him to take pictures of us together (another benefit of having a guide) and absorbing all the information. Tom as per usual having a very short concentration span kept drifting off from what he was saying and returning to the conversation a few minutes later. When our guide finished his guiding duty, we paid him the original rate that he asked of 500 rupees and told him that we wanted to wander around at our leisure.
After circling the building, we took the stairs into the garden area, found a bench and sat just staring at the Taj Mahal. I could have sat there all day just looking at it - I still cannot believe how amazing it actually is! But after around half an hour we made our way out of the garden taking several pictures en route and exited the grounds - next stop Agra Fort.
Unfortunately we did not know much about the history of Agra fort and opted out for a guide this time, but nevertheless it was interesting and beautiful to wander around... I tested my panoramic lens on my phone.......Not bad eh?!!!
After the Fort we headed to the baby Taj Mahal - which was built in the 1620's. This structure is a large tomb which has the symmetry of the Taj Mahal but a with very different look on a much smaller scale. Inside it contains various tombs from history way back......
Baby Taj (Itmad-ud-Daula)
Our day was almost ending in Agra, but last on the agenda was a trip across the river to a quiet spot where we could watch the sunset behind the magnificent Taj. However, not so quiet as we were getting pestered by little kids either wanting chocolate or pens! We gave one kid a pen who ran off extremely happy then a few minutes later, along came his friend! Needless to say, pens (or chocolate for that matter) are not something we carry around in bulk! So he walked off - a not so happy little boy!
A happy boy, with a pen
At least it made a change from them asking for money! Anyway... It was beautiful to see how the reflection of the sun could change the colours and the feel of the Taj Mahal...it was a beautiful day - visiting a place built upon love and devotion...mmmmmm....it was definitely worth the 14 hour piss smelling train journey!!!! Next Stop - Rishikesh....
One last picture of the incredible TajMahal from across the river