Kandy is the home of the 'Temple of the Tooth'. A revered Buddhist temple that houses none other than one of 'The Buddhas' teeth. Yes, one of the main man's Hampstead Heath. It found it's way there by way of a princess smuggling it wrapped within her long hair. For such a relic many people would have killed to have it in their possession!
On Sri Lankan New Years day we visited the temple along with Ishara and her parents, all dressed in our breathtaking white attire which is the preferred colour for visitors to wear, however not always adhered to by tourists and Sri Lankans alike. I would have chosen another colour as my white clothes in my opinion make me look like a nob, but alas I wanted to be respectful so wore what look like my white pyjamas.
Busy, busy, busy, the temple was packed with devotees awaiting a glance of the awe inspiring tooth. I'd decided on not bothering to ascend the stairs to have a look as people young and old were practising their shoving skills to climb the steps faster. Allison and Ishara whisked me up regardless and it was worth the crush. You don't actually see a tooth, it's a golden shrine in which the tooth is housed.
Later that afternoon Ishara's dad did a traditional boiling over of the milk ceremony from a clay pot to bring prosperity in to the new year. After the milk has boiled over it is then added to rice to make delicious milk rice. After the blessings we sat down for a meal, mainly consisting of Sri Lankan sweet foods.
After Ishara dropped us off at Sigiriya she departed and headed back to Colombo to continue her job like normal people do after a holiday.
Sigiriya (The Lion's rock) is an ancient palace built on top of the rock nearly 200 metres high.
It was 10am, the sun was already high in the sky and the temperature was rising rapidly. We had plenty of water and weren't bothered about our fitness levels hampering our way to the top. The only thing that would stop us, or more importantly stop Allison, was her phobia of edges, and Sigiriya definitely has them in abundance.
Temple of the tooth
The nob in his temple attire
Busy, busy, busy, the temple was packed with devotees awaiting a glance of the awe inspiring tooth. I'd decided on not bothering to ascend the stairs to have a look as people young and old were practising their shoving skills to climb the steps faster. Allison and Ishara whisked me up regardless and it was worth the crush. You don't actually see a tooth, it's a golden shrine in which the tooth is housed.
The tooth hidden in it's shrine surrounded by the masses
Later that afternoon Ishara's dad did a traditional boiling over of the milk ceremony from a clay pot to bring prosperity in to the new year. After the milk has boiled over it is then added to rice to make delicious milk rice. After the blessings we sat down for a meal, mainly consisting of Sri Lankan sweet foods.
Ishara's dad sorting out the table
The next few days were spent driving around the countryside taking in the scenery. After leaving Kandy we headed to the beach, stopping en route at Polonnaruwa to take in some of the cultural history of Sri Lanka. We then continued to the beach for one night before exploring the other cultural sites that Sri Lanka has to offer.
Ancient temple in Polonnaruwa
Our budget took a hit with the beautiful beach front hotel Anilana in Pasikuda that Ishara found. Fuck it, we thought as we supped down well needed cocktails by the infinity pool in front of what seemed like a heated Indian ocean.
Cocktail o clock
Infinity and beyond
After Ishara dropped us off at Sigiriya she departed and headed back to Colombo to continue her job like normal people do after a holiday.
Sigiriya (The Lion's rock) is an ancient palace built on top of the rock nearly 200 metres high.
The edge
Remarkably any hiccups were few and far between on the ascent. I was amazed at Allison's speed, we made it to the top in half an hour whilst having to wait for others, as in places the path is incredibly narrow.
At the top covered in sweat!
Descending was a tad more difficult, as you can see in a photo above, you are right by the edge, just held in by a ropey looking railing. Of course I was not bothered by this death defying drop to our right but Allison had to use a technique of trying to look to the left whilst stepping down. I even told her to shut her right eye so she couldn't see the drop, which may help although might make her more prone to actually slipping and falling. She is still alive and made the descent with relative ease considering how I've seen her in the past with lesser edges.
The very same day we headed over to Dambulla to visit the cave temple, and we both came to the conclusion that Sri Lankans love steps! After conquering the 1200 steps at Sigiriya we now had to climb the lesser 364 up to the cave. We climbed and we sweated, astonishingly we still had fluids left in our bodies to be able to sweat as the heat was intense.
Cave temple, Dambulla
Inside one of the five caves
The following day Anuradhapura was next on the itinerary and we arrived after a packed hour and ten minute bus journey that was surprisingly pleasant even though we had to stand all the way, when in Rome.
We decided against paying to see the ancient temples as it was beginning to become expensive and our main aim was to visit the ancient bodhi tree. It is said that a cutting from the tree in India where Buddha attained enlightenment was planted here! It is recorded as over 2000 years old.
He finally senses my disapproval and backs off, that or he's finally relieved himself and shifts down the aisle to find his next victim, a woman this time round, aha, he's a bisexual.
Allison's relaxation diminishes when the loud dodgy music begins to play. This bus has a multitude of speakers recessed into the roof with extra bass bins built into the luggage racks, and we were lucky enough to have one of these bins right above our heads. Boom, boom it went for our three hour journey.
We arrive in Trincomalee, headaches in full effect, find a tuk tuk, or the tuk tuk finds us and we head to our guest house 'Bella nilaveli beach' in Nilaveli. Relaxation is finally bestowed upon us by the beautiful sight and sound of the ocean. Some say this area is cursed, the Tsunami hit back in 2004 plus the civil war ravaged on nearby for 25 years only to finish in 2009. Now me and Allison have rocked up wanting feeding and lodging.
Samira our host is a local man, he previously worked in Paris waiting on people, you can tell as he has the local laid back vibe but still maintains a European efficiency which is rare in Sri Lanka.
Not much is to do here which we both like, cos neither of us want to do sweet F A. Relaxing on the beach then a swim in the sea and repeat, Interspersed with a Lion beer (the local brew) now and again. Holiday, celebrate, this did actually feel like a holiday rather than hard work as sometimes travelling does.
The Sacred Bodhi tree
Our tuk tuk driver for this site seeing tour around Anuradhapura was a big man, a big scary man. Had we made the right decision by getting into his vehicle we both thought, giving each other telling glances as he sped us around the free sites. The first stop was a set of rocks he thought we might be interested in. Either that or he was going to bludgeon us to death in this remote place. What the hell has he taken us here for we both thought, as looking at a few rocks isn't that impressive. Take a picture he told us, and we did as we were told and took a photo of a rock.
A Rock!
I kept my eye on him as he herded us around the rocky spot. Thank god, a couple were seated within our view so killing us at this point would have been rather stupid.
Our initial thoughts of him being a mass murdering psychopath were wrong! He turned out to be one of the good guys and we are both still alive and not lying face down dead in a ditch.
Our tuk tuk driver with his dead eyes
Being in a slow cooker isn't pleasant. Well, I mean a bus in Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka, awaiting its departure. The sun is beating down on the hot tin roof, "I'm melting!" Expressed like the wicked witch of the westside in the wizard of Oz. It feels uncomfortable in this cooker, we are dripping with sweat, my gonads are hot and sticky, a nice salty glaze has been applied to these pieces of fresh meat. The natural air con kicks in as the bus finally departs and the breeze starts to flow in through the open windows. We can begin to relax, or can we? At least Allison can for the moment as she's by the window and I am acting as a barrier to the passengers in the aisle. I however have a guys groin rubbing on my arm. Is this normal Sri Lankan bus riding etiquette, I think to myself? I know we are crammed in but surely he can get his cock off my arm and move his pelvis a couple of inches to the right, right?
He's moved down to his next victim on the packed bus
Allison's relaxation diminishes when the loud dodgy music begins to play. This bus has a multitude of speakers recessed into the roof with extra bass bins built into the luggage racks, and we were lucky enough to have one of these bins right above our heads. Boom, boom it went for our three hour journey.
We arrive in Trincomalee, headaches in full effect, find a tuk tuk, or the tuk tuk finds us and we head to our guest house 'Bella nilaveli beach' in Nilaveli. Relaxation is finally bestowed upon us by the beautiful sight and sound of the ocean. Some say this area is cursed, the Tsunami hit back in 2004 plus the civil war ravaged on nearby for 25 years only to finish in 2009. Now me and Allison have rocked up wanting feeding and lodging.
Samira our host is a local man, he previously worked in Paris waiting on people, you can tell as he has the local laid back vibe but still maintains a European efficiency which is rare in Sri Lanka.
Not much is to do here which we both like, cos neither of us want to do sweet F A. Relaxing on the beach then a swim in the sea and repeat, Interspersed with a Lion beer (the local brew) now and again. Holiday, celebrate, this did actually feel like a holiday rather than hard work as sometimes travelling does.
View from our room
Early morning view
The food that was prepared at Bella Nilaveli by the cook was amazing, a sweet older woman that didn't speak a word of English, we could communicate with her by pointing at things and the expressions on our faces. Our favourite meal that she made was a kilo of prawns we shared, so big, succulent and incredibly meaty. We've never had its equal.
Fresh
Samira, the cook and the gardener all helping out in the kitchen
Gallery cafe, I had dreamt about this place since our first day here in Colombo, Sri Lanka. The food is amazing and the cheesecake is arguably the best I have ever tasted, hence the six weeks of dreams. Me, Allison and Ishara turned up on our second to last evening with two certainties, number one, consuming tamarind chilli martinis and two, eat double chocolate cheesecake! Both were accomplished, so we all left extremely fulfilled and happy with ourselves. What away to end our time in Sri Lanka. Thanks to our great host Ishara, her parents and the amazing country of Sri Lanka.
We shall bid you adieu Sri Lanka, Ishara and Browny the cat (the most spoilt cat in the world). Until next time.
Browny on her thrown
Kia ora New Zealand
Welcome to NZ my friends. I feel a cocktail coming on...
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